To press hair satisfactorily for a client with a flexible scalp, the stylist must:

Hairstyling
- no style ever really goes away
- expert stylist is one clients turn to when they have a big event and need a more dramatic evening look

Client Consultation
- first step in hairstyling process
- encourage client to look through magazines to find a style
- offer her portfolio you keep on hand filled with pictures of current hairstyling trends
- your role is problem-solver
- no matter what client says, they really want a style that is flattering and easy to maintain

Wet hairstyling Basics
Tools:
- rollers: plastic
- clips:
-- duckbill
-- sectioning
-- finger waving
-- double prong
-- single prong
- pins:
-- bobby pins
-- hairpins
- clamps:
-- sectioning clamps
- combs
- brushes

Finger Waving
- process of shaping and directing hair into pattern of "S" shaped waves through use of fingers, combs, and waving lotion
- all the rage in 1920s - 1930s
- technique of moving and directing hair
- develop corrodination and finger strength required for professional hairstyling
- valuable training in molding hair to curved surface of head
- excellent introduction to hairstyling

Finger Waving Lotion
- Waving Lotion:
-- type of hair gel makes hair pliable enough to keep it in place during finger waving procedure
- made from karaya gum, taken from trees found in Africa and India
- karaya gum is diluted for use on fine hair
- karaya gum used in more concentrated consistency on regular or coarse hair
- good waving lotion is harmless to hair and does not flake when it dries
- do not use too much of it at any one time
-- hair wil be too wet and the waving lotion will drip
- liquid styling gels commonly used in conjunction with finger waving
-- in some cases, have phased out traditional karaya gum products

Other Methods of Finger Waving
- instead of completing one side before beginning the other, you may want to complete first ridge on one side of head, then move to the other side to form the first ridge there
- after joining the two, repeat in this manner under finished with entire head
- in vertical finger waving, ridges and waves run up and down head
- horizontal finger waves are sideways and parallel around head
- procedure is same for both

Pin Curls
- serve as basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, ad rolls, that are used in wide range of hairstyles
- use on straight, permanent waved, or naturally curly hair
- works best when hair is properly layered and smoothly wound
- makes springy and long-lasting curls with good direction and definition

Parts of a Curl
- 3 parts: base, stem, and circle
1. Base:
-- the stationary, or nonmoving, foundation of curl
-- area closest to scalp
2. Stem:
-- section of pin curl, between base and first arc (turn) of circle
-- gives circle its direction and movement
3. Circle:
-- part of pin curl that forms a complete circle
-- size of circle determines width of wave and strength

Mobility of a Curl
- stem determines amount of mobility, or movement, of a section of hair
- curl mobility is classified as no stem, half stem, and full stem
1. No-Stem Curl:
-- placed directly on base of curl
-- produces tight, firm, long-lasting curl and allows minimum mobility
2. Half-Stem Curl:
-- permits medium movement
-- the curl (circle) is placed half off the base
-- gives good control to hair
3. Full-Stem Curl:
-- allows for greatest mobility
-- curl is placed completely off base
-- base may be square, triangular, half-moon or rectangular section, depending on area of head in which full-stem curls are used
-- gives much freedom as length of stem will permit
-- if exaggerated, hair near scalp will be flat and almost straight
-- give hair a strong, definite direction

Shaping for Pin Curl Placements
- Shaping:
-- a section of hair that is moulded in a circular movement in preparation for the formulation of curls
-- either open end (right side of "C") or closed end (left side of "C")
-- always begin pin curl at open end, or convex side, or a shaping

Open and Closed Centre Curls
- Open Centre Curls:
-- produce even, smooth waves and uniform curls
- Closed Centre Curls:
-- produce waves that get smaller in size toward end
-- good for fine hair or if a fluffy curl is desired
- width of curl determines size of wave
- if you make pin curls with end outside curl, resulting wave will be narrower near scalp and wider toward end

Curl & Stem Direction
- curls may be:
-- turned toward face
-- away from face
-- upward
-- downward
-- diagonally
- finished result will be determined by direction in which stem of curl is placed
- Clockwise Curls:
-- formed in same direction as movement of hand of a clock
- Counterclockwise Curls:
-- describe direction of pin curls at opposite movement of hand on clock

Pin Curl Foundations or Bases
- divide wet hair into sections or panels
- subdivide each section into type of base required for various curls
- most common base used => arc base
-- half-moon or "C" shape
- other bases are
-- rectangular
-- triangle
-- square
- to avoid splits in finished hairstyle, use care when selecting and forming curl base
- when sections of hair are equal a possible => get curls similar to one another
- each curl must lie flat and smooth on base
- if too far off base, curl will lie loose away from scalp
- shape of base does NOT affect finished curl
- Rectangular Base Pin Curls:
-- usually recommended at side front hairline for a smooth, upsweep effect
-- to avoid splits in comb-out, pin curls must overlap
- Triangular Base Pin Curls:
-- recommended along front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits in finished hairstyle
-- allows a portion of hair from each curl to overlap the next and can be combed into a wave without splits
- Arc Base Pin Curls: Half-Moon or "C" Shape Base Curls
-- carved out of a shaping
-- give good direction and may be used at hairline or nape
- Square Base Pin Curls:
-- suitable for curly hairstyles without must volume or lift
-- sed on any part of head and will comb out with lasting results
-- avoid splits in comb-out, stagger sectioning as shown in illustration
--- square base, bricklay fashion

Pin Curl Technique
- Ribboning:
-- forcing hair between thumb and back of comb to create tension
-- pulling strands while applying pressure between thumb and index finger out toward ends of strands

Carved Curls or Sculptured Curls
- Carved Curls:
-- pin curls sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting hair from head
- ribboning also features in this method

Designing with Pin Curls
- to create a wave, use 2 rows of pin curls
-- set 1 row clockwise and 2nd row counterclockwise
- Ridge Curls:
-- pin curls placed immediately behind or below ridge to form wave
- Skip Waves:
-- 2 rows of ridge curls, usually on side of head
-- create strong wave pattern with well-defined lines between waves
-- represents a combination of finger waving and pin curls

Creating Volume with Pin Curls
- contribute to volume of hair
- Cascade or Stand-up Curls
-- create height in hair design
-- fastened to head in standing position to allow hair to flow upward and then downward
-- size of curl determines amount of height in comb-out
- Barrel Curls:
-- have large centre openings and are fastened to head in standing position on rectangular base
-- have same effect as stand-up pin curls
-- barrel curl is similar to roller but does not have same tension as roller when set

Roller Curls
- rollers used to create many of same effects as stand-up pin curls
- rollers advantages over pin curls:
-- roller holds equivalent of 2-4 stand-up curls => faster way to set hair
-- hair is wrapped around roller with tension => stronger & longer-lasting set
-- rollers come in variety of shapes, widths, and sizes => broadens creative possibilities for any style

Parts of a Roller Curl
- Base:
-- panel of hair on whch roller is placed
-- same length and width as roller
-- type of base affects volume
- Stem:
-- hair between scalp and first turn of roller
-- gives hair direction and mobility
- Curl or Cuticle:
-- hair is wrapped around roller
-- determines size of wave or curl

Choosing Roller Size
- relationship between length of hair and size of roller determine whether result will be a C shape, wave, or curl
- 1. C-shaped Curl:
-- 1 complete turn around roller
- 2. Wave:
-- 1 1/2 turns around roller
- 3. Curls:
-- 2 1/2 turns around roller

Roller Placement
- size of roller and how it sits on base determine volume achieved
- the larger the roller => greater the volume
1. On Base:
-- full volume
-- roller sits directly on base
-- overdirect strand slightly in front of base and roll hair down to base
-- roller should fit on base
2. Half Base:
-- for medium volume
-- roller sits halfway on base and halfway behind base
-- hold strand straight up from head and roll hair down
3. Off Base:
-- for least volume
-- roller sits completely off base
-- hold strand 45 degrees back from base and roll hair down

Hot Rollers
- used on dry hair only
heated either electrically or by steam
- great time-saver in salon
- follow same setting patterns as wet setting, but allow hot roller to stay on hair for only about 10 minutes
- hot rollers usually come with own clips to secure them
- thermal protector can be sprayed on hair prior to set
- some manufacturers have spray-on products to apply to each section of hair to help set stronger

Velcro Rollers
- used on dry hair only
- used on wet hair will snag and pull hair
- if client needs more body (than with round brush) and less volume (than hot roller or wet set)
- used after hair blow-dried, provide just the amount of volume you are looking for
- need to stay in hair for 5-10 minutes, depending on how much set you want in hair
- follow same setting patterns as wet setting
- no clipping necessary to secure roller
- Velcro fabric grips hair well and stays in place on own
- mist entire head with hairspray
- either place client under hooded dryer for 5-10 minutes or use diffuser attachment on blow-dryer for recommended time to give soft set to hair
- for even softer look, do not apply heat after roller are put in
-- have client set for a few minutes
-- good time to instruct client how they can repeat process at home to maintain style
- always remove any hair from Velcro and electric rollers after use

NOTE: Velcro rollers are NOT allowed by state boards in some states and provinces because difficulty of sanitizing them properly

Comb-Out Techniques
- good sets => good comb-outs

Back-Combing & Back-Brushing Techniques
- best ways to lift and increase volume
- remove indentations caused by roller setting
- Back-Combing: Teasing, Ratting, Matting, or French Lacing
-- combing small sections of hair from ends toward scalp
-- causing shorter hair to mat at scalp and form a cushion or base
- Back-Brushing: Ruffing
-- used to build soft cushion or mesh 2 or more curl patterns together for uniform and smooth comb-out
- during 1950s and 60s, women typically had hair wet-set and combed out
-- last last entire week with back-combing and back-brushing
- now these technique used for styling updos or add little height to hairstyle, after hot roller setting or blow drying

Back-Combing Technique
1. starting in front, pick up section of hair no more than 1 inch thick and 2-3 inches (5-7.5cm) wide
2. insert fine teeth of comb into hair at depth of about 1 1/2 inches (3.75cm) from scalp
3. press comb gently down scalp, rotating it down and out of hair
-- repeat process, working up section until desired volume achieved
4. if you wish to create cushion (base), 3rd time you insert comb, use same rotating motion, but firmly push hair down to scalp
-- slide comb out of hair
5. repeat process, working up strand until desired volume achieved
6. to smooth hair that is back-combed, hold teeth of comb or bristles of brush at 45-degree angle, pointed away from you
-- lightly move comb over surface of hair

Back-Brushing Technique
1. pick up and hold strand straight out from scalp
2. maintaining slight amount of slack in strand, place a teasing brush or grooming brush near base of strand
-- push and roll inner edge of brush with wrist until it touches scalp
-- for interlocking to occur, brush must be rolled
-- remove brush from hair with a turn of wrist, peeling back a layer of hair
-- hair interlocked to form soft cushion at scalp
3. repeat procedure by moving brush about 1/2 inch (1.25cm) farther away from scalp with each stroke until desired volume achieved

Hair Wrapping
- used to keep curly or extremely curly hair smooth and straight
- similar to roller setting using very large rollers
- think of head itself as very large roller
- just as hair is wrapped around roller to give shape of roller, wrap hair around head so hair takes on shape of head
- not much volume attained because hair at scalp not lifted up
- if height is desired at crown, place large rollers directly at crown, with remainder of hair wrapped around perimeter
- wrapping done on wet or dry hair
- on curly hair, wet wrapping is sufficient for smooth, straight look
- for very curly hair, press dry hair first, then wrap it

Blow-Dry Styling
- selection of styling tools, techniques, and products must relate to client's lifestyle
- is she capable of styling her own hair?
- how much time will she have to do it?
- your responsibility to guide and educate client through process
- 1st impression client have of haircut determined by quality of blow-dry

Tools for Blow-Dry Styling
- Blow-Dryer:
-- electrical device designed for drying and styling hair in single service
-- main parts are handle, slotted nozzle, small fan, heating element, speed/heat controls
-- some with cooling buttons
-- temperature control panel produce steady stream of air at desired temperature
- Concentrator:
-- blow-dryer's nozzle attachment
-- direction feature directing air stream to any section of hair more intensely
- Diffuser:
-- causes air to flow more softly
-- help accentuate or keep textural definition
- keep blow-dryer safe and effective, make sure it is always perfectly clean and free of dirt, grease, and hair before using
- dirt or hair cause extreme heat and hair burn
- air intake at back of dryer must be kept clear at all times, otherwise burn out

Combs & Picks
- distribute and part hair
- wide variety of sizes and shapes to adapt to many styling options
- length and spacing of teeth may vary from one comb to another
- teeth are closely spaced remove definition from curl => create smooth surface
- widely spaced teeth shape larger sections of hair for more surface texture
- combs with picks at one end lift hair away from head

Brushes
- when choosing styling brush, include texture, length, and styling needs of hair you are working with
- brushes come in many sizes, shapes, and materials
- Classic Styling Brush:
-- half-rounded rubber-based brush with smooth round-ended nylong quills
-- either 7 or 9 rows
-- heat resistant and antistatic, ideal for smoothing and untangling all types of hair
-- perfect for blow-drying precision haircuts, where not too much volume desired
-- less suitable for smooth classic shapes with rounded edges
-- excellent airflow through brush
- Paddle Brushes:
-- large, flat bases, for mid- to longer-length hair
-- best designs have ball-tipped nylon pins and staggered in patterns that do not snag hair
- Grooming Brushes:
-- oval with pure natural bristles or quills of bristle and nylon mix
-- boar bristles distribute scalp oils throughout shaft of hair => giving shine
-- nylon bristles stimulate circulation of blood to scalp
-- adding polish and shine to fine or normal hair and are great for combing out updos
- Vent brushes:
-- ventilated design used to speed up blow-drying process
-- ideal for blow-drying fine hair and adding lift at scalps
- Round Brushes:
-- different diameters
-- client's hair should wrap twice around brush
-- normally have natural bristles, sometimes wiht nylon mixed for better grip
-- smaller brushes add more curl
-- larger brushes straighten hair and bevel ends of hair
-- large round brushes lift hair at scalp-- some have metal cylinder bases so heat from blow-drying is transferred to metal base, creating stronger curl similar to electric roller
-- always use cooling button on blow-dryer before releasing section of hair
- Teasing Brush:
-- nylon styling brush has a tail for sectioning, with narrow row of bristles
-- perfect for back-combing hair and then smoothing out hair into a style, suing sides of bristles

Sectioning Clips
- usually metal or plastic and have long prongs to hold wet or dry sections of hair in place
- important to keep whatever wet hair you are not working on sectioned off in clips so that wet hair does not sit over dry hair, especially long hair

FYI: styling products represents retailing opportunity in salon. as you style client's hair, talk about what products you're using to achieve desired look and why. demonstrate uses and benefits of each product.  Most clients are eager to learn any styling "secrets" you can share with them.  Discussing products as you use them gives client's reasons to buy.

Styling Lotions
- thought as liquid tools
- give style more hold
- add shine and curl or take curl away
- greatly enhance style or can ruin overall look
- important to understand how hair responds to each type of lotion
- how long does style need to hold?
- under what environmental conditions will client wear style
-- dryness, humidity, wind, sun, etc
- consider type of hair
-- fine, coarse, straight, and curly
- heavier products work by causing strands of hair to cling together, adding more pronounced definition
-- weight hair down => especially fine hair
- liquid styling products range from light to very firm hold
- determine amount of support desired and choose accordingly
- Foam or Mousse:
-- light, airy, whipped styling product, resembles shaving foam
-- build moderate body and volume into hair
-- massage it into damp hair to highlight textural movement, or blow-dry it straight for styles in which body without texture is desired
-- good for fine hair => does not weigh hair down
-- hold for 6-8 hours in dry conditions
-- conditioning foams excellent for drier, more porous hair
- Gel:
-- thickened styling preparation
-- firm-bodied and usually clear or transparent
-- in tube or bottle
-- strongest hold of all products, other than finishing spritz or spray
-- strongest control for slicked or moulded styles and distinct texture definition when spread with fingers
-- when brushed out, creates long-lasting body
-- gel that produces longest hold may overwhelm fine hair because of high resin level
--- not a concern if fine hair is moulded into lines of the style and does not get brushed through when dry
- Liquid Gels or Texturizers:
-- lighter and more viscous, or liquid, in form
-- similar in function to firm-hold gels
-- allow for easy styling, defining, and moulding
-- with brushing, add volume and body to style
-- good for all hair types, offer firmer, longer hold for fine hair with least heaviness, and give lighter moderate hold to normal or coarse hair types
-- when applied to wavy, curly, or extremely curly damp hair and then blow-dried, Straightening Gels relax hair for smooth, straight look, with most hold in dry outdoor conditions
-- counter frizzy hair by coating hair shaft and weighing it down
-- temporary solution lasting only from shampoo to shampoo and undone in extremely humid conditions
- Volumizers:
-- add volume to shape, especially at base, when hair is blow-dried
-- sprayed into base of fine, wet hair
-- vent or round brush used and hair is not stretched too rightly around brush => even more volume achieved
-- add light gel or mousse to rest of hair for more hold => but avoid base of hair
- Pomade or Wax:
-- adds considerable weight to hair by causing strands to join together, showing separation in hair
-- used on dry hair => easy to mould, adding greater manageability
-- used sparingly on fine hair because of weight
-- as man's grooming product
-- excellent on short hair
- Silicone Shiners:
-- add gloss and sheen to hair while creating textural definition
-- non-oily silicone shine products excellent for all hair types
-- before drying to provide lubrication and protection to hair while blow-drying
-- or for finishing at very end to add extra shine
-- spray shiners, applied like hair spray, add shine without weight, so useful for all hair types
- Hair Spray or Finishing Spray:
-- applied in form of mist to hold a style in position
-- most widely used hairstyling product
-- available in variety of holding strengths: both aerosol or non-aerosol sprays
-- all hair types
-- effective in dry or dam weather
-- easily combed or brushed through as "working spray"
-- finishing spray used for firmest possible hold where style will not be distrubed

Styling Long Hair
- Updo:
-- hairstyle which hair is arranged up and off shoulders and secrued with implements such as hairpins, bobby pins, and elastics
-- clients request for special occasions such as weddings, proms, and evening events

Some Popular Updo Styles are:
- Chignon:
-- true classic popular for centuries
-- created out of simple ponytail and can be dressed up with flowers or ornaments or kept simple
-- if client's hair is very straight and silky, first set hair for 10 minutes in electric rollers or style will not last
-- if hair is wavy to curly, blow-dry hair striaght
-- if hair is extremely curly, you could press hair first, or leave it natural for a textured-looking chignon
- Basic French Twist:
-- elegant, sleek look can go anywhere
-- working on straight, fine hair, you may want to first st hair in electric or Velcro rollers to give more body
- Classic French Twist:
-- traditional way to style French twist, mostly for special evening and black-tie events
-- shape is much larger than basic twist
-- you can be more creative with front area
- always inspect shape you are building from every angle to make sure that it is well balanced and well proportioned

Client Consultation
- consult with client first to make sure you understand what she has in mind
- have on hand magazines that show a lot of updos or folder of pictures clipped from magazines showing, best current styles
-- bridal magazines
- if consulting with a bride, suggest a trial fun
-- try several looks to see how they work with her hairpiece
-- take photographs so she can decide which styles she likes best
-- have a copy of photo so you can remember what you did

Thermal Hairstyling (Marcel Waving) and Thermal Curling
- methods of waving and curling straight or pressed hair using thermal irons and special manipulative technique on dry hair
- either electrically heated or stove-heated, modernized
- manipulative techniques are basically same for electric irons or stove-heated irons

Thermal Irons
- provide even heat completely controlled by stylist
- must be made of best quality steel to hold even temperature during waving and curling process
- styling portion composed of 2 parts:
-- rod: perfectly round solid steel prong
-- shell: perfectly round with inside grooved so rod can rest when irons closed
--- edge of shell nearest stylist called inner edge and one farthest called outer edge
- come in variety of styles, sizes, weights, from small to jumbo, available in different classifications
1. conventional (Marcel) stove-heated
2. electric self-heated
3. electric self-heated, vaporizing

- no one correct temperature used for irons when thermal curling or thermal waving hair
- temperature setting depends on texture of hair (fine or coarse) or if lightened or tinted
- hair lightened or tinted or white hair, should be curled and waved with lukewarm irons
- coarse and gray hair can withstand more heat than fine hair

CAUTION: Do NOT use electric vaporizing irons on pressed hair
-- moisture could cause hair to return to natural extremely curly state

Testing Thermal Irons:
- after heating irons to desired temperature, test them on piece of tissue paper
- clap heated irons over tissue for 5 seconds
- if paper scorches or turns brown => too hot
-- let cool a bit before using
- overly hot irons can burn scorch, or damage hair, discolour white hair
- fine, lightened, or badly damaged hair withstands less heat than normal hair

Care of Thermal Irons
- should be kept clean and free from rust and carbon
- remove dirt or grease: wash irons in soap solution containing few drops of ammonia
-- cuts oil and grease that cling to irons
- fine sandpaper, or steel wool with little oil, remove rust and carbon and polishes irons
- make sure you get more movement => oil joint of irons
- designed to hold heat in most uniform manner
- overheat irons => ruined

CAUTION: Do NOT use thermal irons on chemically straightened hair
-- cause breakage

Comb Used with Thermal Irons
- comb should be about 7 inches (17.5cm) long, made of hard rubber or non-flammable substance
- should have fine teeth => hold hair more firmly
- hold comb between thumb and all 4 fingers of left hand, with index finger resting on backbone of comb for better control and one end of comb resting against outer edge of palm
-- assures strong hold and firm movement

Manipulating Thermal Irons
- hold irons in comfortable position that gives you complete control
- grasp handles of irons in right hand (or left if left-handed), far enough away from joint to avoid heat
- place 3 middle fingers on back of lower handle, little finger in front of lower handle, and thumb in front of upper handle
- practice by rolling cold irons in your hand, first forward, then backward
-- rolling movement done without any sway or motion in arm
--- only fingers are used as you roll handles in either direction

Thermal Curling with Electric Thermal Irons
- modern thermal irons and comb all you need
- thermal curling requires no setting creams or lotions
- straight hair:
-- permits quick styling
-- thermal curling eliminates working with wet hir and deos awy with need for rollers and long hair-drying process
- pressed hair:
-- permits styling hair without danger of returning to former extremely curly condition
-- thermal curling prepares hair for any desired style
- wigs and hairpiece:
-- presents a quick and effective method for styling

Curling Irons Manipulations
- some stylists prefer to use just the little finger or little finger plus ring finger
- method of holding irons is personal preference
- choose one that gives the greatest ease, comfort, and facility of movement

Exercises:
1. develop smooth rotating movement:
-- practice turning irons while opening and closing them at regular intervals
-- practice rotating irons in both directions: downward (toward you) and upward (away from you)
2. practice releasing hair by opening and closing irons in quick, clicking movement
3. practice guiding hair strand into centre of curl as you rotate iron
-- ensure end of strand is firmly in centre of curl
4. practice removing curl from irons by drawing comb to left and rod to right
-- use comb to protect client's scalp from burns

Curling Short Hair
1. shampoo and dry hair
-- divide head into 5 sections
-- 1st section about 2 1/2 inches (6.25cm) wide, extends from centre of forehead to nape of neck
-- divide 2 side panels in half, from top parting to neck, to create 4 additional sections
2. heat thermal iron (large or jumbo size)
3. begin by sectioning and parting base of each curl to match size of curl desired
-- important to consider hair length, density, and texture
-- base usually about 1 1/2 inch - 2 inches (3.75 - 5cm) in width and 1/2 inch (1.25cm) in depth
4. aftere sectioning off base, comb hair smooth and straight out from sclp
-- loose hairs may result in an uneven and ragged curl
5. after irons have been heated to desired temperature, pick up strand of hair and comb it up smoothly
-- with groove on top, insert irons about 1 inch (2.5cm) from scalp and hold for a few seconds to form base
6. hold ends of hair strand with your thumb and 2 fingers of your left hand (right hand if left-handed), using a medium degree of tension
-- tun irons downward (toward you) with your right hand
7. open and close irons rapidly as you turn, to prevent binding
-- guide ends of strand into centre of curl as you rotate irons
8. result of this procedure will be a smooth finished curl, with ends firmly fixed in centre
-- remove irons from curl

Curling Medium-Length Hair
1. section and form base of curl as described for short hair
2. insert hair into open irons at scalp
-- pull hair over rod in direction of curl and close shell
-- hld irons in position for about 5 seconds to heat hair, then slide irons up to 1 inch (2.5cm) from scalp
-- shell must be on top
3. turn irons downward one-half revolution
-- pull end of strand over rod to left, directing strand toward centre of curl
4. complete revolution of irons and continue directing ends toward centre
5. make another complete revolution of irons
-- entire strand has now been curled with exception of ends
-- enlarge curl by opening shell
-- insert ends of curl into opening created between shell and rod
6. close shell and slide irons toward handles
-- this technique will move ends of strand into centre of curl
-- rotate irons several times to even out distribution of hair in curl
7. when curl is formed and ends are freed from between the rod and shell, make on complete revolution of irons inside curl
-- this smooths ens and loosens hair away from irons
-- use comb to help remove curl from irons
-- slowly draw irons in one direction while drawing hair in opposite direction with comb

Curling Hair (Using 2 Loops or "Figure 8")
1. section and form base of curl as described for short hair
2. insert hair into open irons about 1 inch (2.5cm) from scalp
-- pull hair over rod in direction in which curl is to move and close shell
-- hold irons in this position for about 5 seconds, in order to heat hair
-- hold strand of hair with a medium degree of tension
3. roll irons under
-- click and roll them until groove is facing you
4. with left hand, pick up ends of hair
5. continue to roll and click irons, keeping them in same distance from scalp
6. draw hair strand toward tip of irons
7. draw stand a little to right, and at same time, push irons slightly to left
8. by pushing irons forward and pushing hair with left hand, you will form 2 loops around closed irons, with ends of strand extending out between loops
9. roll under and click irons until ends of hair disappear
10. rotate irons several times to even out distribution of hair in curl and to facilitate movement of curl off irons

CAUTION: to protect client during curling process, use comb between scalp and irons

Other Types of Curls
- Spiral Curl:
-- method of curling hair by winding a strand around rod
-- creates hanging curls suitable for medium to long hairstyles
-- part hair into as many sections as there will b curls and comb smooth
-- insert irons at an angle, with bowl (groove) on top near base of strand, and rotate irons until all hair is wound
-- hold curl in this position for 4-5 seconds and remove irons in usual manner
- End Curls:
-- used to give finished appearance to hair ends
-- long, medium-length, or short hair may be styled with end curls
-- hair ends can be turned under or over

Volume Thermal Iron Curls
- used to create volume or lift in finished hairstyle
- degree of lift desired determines type of volume curls to be used

Volume-Based Thermal Curls
- provide maximum lift or volume
-- curl is placed very high on its base
- section off base as described
- hold curl strand at 135-degree angle
- slide irons over strand about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) from scalp
- wrap strand over rod with medium tension
- maintain position for approximately 5 seconds in order to heat strand and set base
- roll curl in usual manner and firmly place it forward and high on its base

Full-Base Thermal Curls
- provide a strong curl with full volume
- section off base as described
- hold hair strand at 125-degree angle
- slide irons over hair strand about 1/2 inch (1.25cm) from scalp
- wrap strand over rod with medium tension
- maintain this position for about 5 seconds to heat strand and set base
- roll curl in usual manner and place firmly in centre of its base

Half-Base Curls
- provide strong curl with moderate lift or volume
- section off base as described
- hold hair at 90-degree angle
- slide irons over hair strand about 1/2 inch (1.25cm) from scalp
- wrap strand over rod with medium tension
- maintain position for about 5 seconds to heat strand and set base
- roll curl in usual manner, and place it half off its base

Off-Base Curls
- offer a curl option with only slight lift or volume
- section off base as described
- hold hair at 70-degree angle
- slide irons over hair strand about 1/2 inch (1.25cm) from scalp
- wrap strand over rod with medium tension
- maintain position for about 5 seconds to heat strand and set base
- roll curl in usual manner, and place completely off its base

Finished Thermal Curl Settings
- for best result, clip each curl in place until whole head is complete and ready for styling
- brush hair, working up from neckline and pushing waves into place as you progress over entire head
- if hairstyle is to be finished with curls, do bottom curls last

Safety Measures
1. use thermal irons only after receiving instruction in their use
2. keep thermal irons clean and oil joint
3. do NOT overheat irons => damage ability of irons to hold heat uniformly
4. test temperature of irons on tissue paper before placing them on hair
-- safeguard against burning hair
-- do NOT inhale fumes of irons => injurious to lungs
5. do NOT place hot irons near face to test for temperature => burn can result
6. handle thermal irons carefully to avoid burning yourself or client
7. place hot irons in safe place to cool
-- do NOT leave them where someone might accidentally come into contact and be burned
8. when heating irons, do NOT place handles too close to heater
-- hand might be burned when removing irons
9. make sure irons are properly balanced in heater => might fall and be damaged or injure someone
10. use only hard rubber or nonflammable combs
-- celluloid combs must NOT be used in thermal curling => flammable
11. do NOT use metal combs => becomes hot and burn scalp
12. do NOT use combs with broken teeth
-- can break or split hair or injure scalp
13. place comb between scalp and thermal irons when curling or waving hair to prevent burning scalp
14. client's hair must be clean and completely dry => ensure good thermal curl or wave
15. if hair is thick and bulky, thin and taper it first
16. on lightened or tinted hair, use thermal irons only on lower settings
17. do NOT allow hair ends to protrude over irons
-- this will cause fishhooks (hair bent or folded
18. do NOT use vaporizing thermal irons on pressed hair => hair will revert to original extremely curly state
19. do NOT use thermal irons on chemically straightened hair => might cause damage to hair
-- can be used on relaxed hair if heat is controlled
20. a first aid kit must always be kept available in case of accident

Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing)
- temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair by means of a heated iron or comb
- generally lasts until hair is shampooed
- prepares hair for additional services, such as thermal roller curling and croquignole thermal curling (2-loop or "Figure 8" technique)
- good hair pressing leaves hair in a natural and lustrous condition and is not at all harmful to hair
- 3 types of hair pressing
1. Soft Press
-- removes about 50-60% of curl
-- accomplished by applying thermal pressing comb once on each side of hair
2. Medium Press
-- removes about 60-75% of curl
-- accomplished by thermal pressing comb once on each side of hair, using slightly more pressure
3. Hand Press
-- removes 100% of curl
-- involves application of thermal pressing comb twice on each side of hair
-- can also be done by first passing hot curling iron through hair (Double Press)

CAUTION: under NO circumstances should hair pressing be given to client who has scalp abrasion, contagious scalp condition, scalp injury, or chemically damaged hair
-- chemically relaxed hair should not be pressed

Analysis of Hair & Scalp
- if client's hair & scalp not normal, give appropriate advice for corrective treatmetns
- if scalp abrasions, advise client to see dermatologist
- if hair shows signs of neglect or abuse caused by faulty pressing, lightening, or tinting, recommend a series of conditioning treatments
- failure to correct dry and brittle hair result in hair breakage during hair pressing
- burnt hair strands cannot be conditioned
- check client's hair for elasticity and porosity
- under normal conditions:
-- if client's hair has good elasticity => safely stretched to about 50% of original length
-- if porosity is normal => hair return to natural wave pattern when it is wet or moistened

A careful analysis of client's hair should cover following points:
- wave pattern
- length
- texture (coarse, medium, fine, or very fine)
- feel (wiry, soft, or silky)
- elasticity
- shade (natural, faded, streaked, gray, tinted, lightened)
- condition (normal, brittle, dry, oily, damaged, or chemically treated)
- condition of scalp (normal, flexible, or tight)

- important to recognize differences in hair texture, porosity, elasticity, and scalp flexibility
-- determine how much pressure hair and scalp can handle without breakage, hair loss, or burning from pressing comb not adjusted to correct temperature

Hair Texture
- variations in hair texture have to do with diameter of hair (coarse, medium, or fine) and the feel of hair (wiry, soft, or silky)
- touching client's hair and asking specifically about hair characteristics determine best way to treat hair
- coarse, extremely curly hair has qualities that make it difficult to press
-- has greatest diameter, and during pressing process requires more heat and pressure than medium or fine hair
- medium curly hair is normal type of hair => no special problem presented and least resistant to hair pressing
- fine hair requires special care
-- avoid breakage, less heat and pressure should be applied
-- fine hair has only 2 layers (cortex & cuticle, no medulla)
- wiry, curly hair may be coarse, medium, or fine
-- feels stiff, hard, and glassy
-- because of compact construction of cuticle cells => very resistant to hair pressing and requires more heat and pressure than other types

Scalp Condition
- normal, tight, or flexible
- normal: proceed with analysis of texture and elasticity
- tight & coarse hair: press hair in direction of growth => avoid scalp injury
- flexible: difficulty - might not apply enough pressure to press hair satisfactorily

Record Card
- keep a record of results of your hair & scalp analysis as well as all pressing treatments performed on client
- question client about any lightener, tint, colour restorer (metallic), or other chemical treatment that has been used on hair
- release statement should be used for hair pressing, as with all services that might protect stylist from responsibility for accidents or damages

Conditioning Treatments
- involves special cosmetic preparations for hair and scalp, thorough brushing, and scalp massage
- applying conditioning treatment results in better hair pressing
- use of infrared lamp is optional, depending on type of treatment being given
- tight scalp made more flexible by systematic use of scalp massage or hair brushing
-- circulation of blood to scalp

Pressing Combs
- 2 types of pressing combs: regular and electric
- both be constructed of either good-quality stainless steel or brass
- handle usually made of wood => not absorb heat
- space between teeth of comb varies with size and style of comb
- comb with more space between teeth produces coarse or open-lookin gpress
- comb with less space produces smoother press
- pressing combs vary in size
-- short to be used with short hair
-- long combs used with long hair
- temper a new pressing comb if made of brass
-- allows brass to hold heat evenly along entire length of comb => better results
-- burn off any polish the manufacturer used to coat comb
--- if not burned off, comb may stick to hair causing scorching and breakage
-- to temper: place comb in heating appliance until extremely hot
--- remove comb and submerge or coat it in petroleum or pressing oil
--- let cool down naturally
--- rinse under hot running water to remove oil

Heating Comb
- combs vary in ability to accept and retain heat
- regular pressing combs may be heated on gas stoves or are heated electrically
- while comb heating, teeth should face upward and handle should be kept away from fire
- after heating comb to proper temperature, test on piece of light paper
-- if paper becomes scorched, allow comb to cool slightly before applying it to hair
- 2 forms of electric pressing combs
-- one comes with "on" and "off" switch
-- other equipped with thermostat that has control switch indicating high or low degrees of heat
- straightening comb attachment that fits the nozzle of a standard hand-held dryer => less damaging than electric comb or an oven-heated comb

Cleaning Comb
- pressing comb will perform more efficiently if it is kept clean and free of carbon
- wipe comb clean of loose hair, grease, and dust before and after every use
- intense heat keeps comb sterile, once all loose hair or clinging dirt is removed
- remove carbon from comb by rubbing outside surface and between teeth with fine steel wool pad or fine sandpapaer
- place metal portion of comb in a hot baking soda solution for about 1 hour, rinse and dry
- metal will acquire a smooth and shiny appearance

Pressing Oil or Cream
- prepare hair for hair pressing treatment by first applying pressing oil or cream
- both products have following effects:
-- make hair softer
-- prepare and condition hair for pressing
-- prevent hair from burning or scorching
-- prevent hair breakage
-- condition hair after pressing
-- add sheen to pressed hair
-- help hair stay pressed longer

Hard Press (Double-Comb Press)
- recommended when results of a soft press not satisfactory
- entire comb press procedure is repeated
- pressing oil should be added to hair strands only if necessary

Touch-Ups
- necessary when hair becomes curly again due to perspiration, dampness, or other conditions
- same process for original pressing treatment with shampoo omitted

CAUTION: in case of scalp burn, immediately apply 1% gentian violet jelly

Safety Precautions
- 2 types of injuries
1. immediate results of hair pressing that cause physical damage
-- burnt hair that breaks off, burnt scalp that causes either temporary or permanent loss of hair, and burns on ears and neck that form scars
2. not immediately evident but later cause physical damage
-- skin rash, allergic to pressing oil
-- breaking and shortening of hair due to overly frequent hair pressings

- good judgment used to avoid damage
- consideration to texture of hair and condition of scalp
- avoid using the following:
-- excessive heat or pressure on hair & scalp
-- too much pressing oil on hair
--- attracts dirt making hair look greasy and artificial
-- perfumed pressing oil near scalp if allergic
-- overly frequent hair pressing => weakens hair

Reminders & Hints on Soft Pressing
- keep comb clean and free from carbon
- avoid overheating pressing comb
- test temperature of heated comb on white cloth or white paper before applying to hair
- adjust temperature of pressing comb to texture and condition of hair
- use heated comb carefully to avoid burning skin, scalp, or hair
- prevent smoking or burning of hair during pressing treatment by drying hair completely after it is shampooed and avoiding excessive application of pressing oil over hair
- use moderately warm comb to press short hair on temples and back of neck
-- use temple comb => half the size of regular pressing comb

Special Considerations
- pressing fine hair:
-- same procedure for normal hair
-- careful not ot use a hot pressing comb or too much pressure
-- avoid hair breakage, apply less pressure to hair near ends
-- after completely pressing hair, style it
- pressing short, fine hair:
-- extra care taken at hairline
-- extra short hair, pressing comb NOT be too hot => burn easily
--- cause accidental burns, very painful and scars
-- in event of burn, apply 1% gentian violet jelly
- pressing coarse hair:
-- apply enough pressure so that hair remains straightened
- pressing tinted, lightened, or grey (unpigmented) hair:
-- requires special care
-- lightened or tinted hair might require conditioning treatments, depending on extent to which it has been damaged
-- grey hair may be particularly resistant
--- use moderately heated pressing comb applied with light pressure
-- avoid excessive heat => discoloration or breakage

Procedure 8 - Preparing hair for wet styling

Implements & Materials
- towels
- plastic cape
- shampoo
- conditioner
- neck strip

Preparation
1. wash hands with soap and warm water
2. perform client consultation and hair analysis
3. drape client for shampoo service
4. shampoo client's hair and condition if necessary. towel-dry hair
5. remove any tangles with wide-tooth comb, starting at ends and working up to scalp

Procedure for parting hair
- create a part elsewhere on head if client is more comfortable wearing it or if your design works better
1. comb wet hair straight back from hairline
2. push hair gently forward with palm of hand
3. use comb and other hand to separate hair where it parts

If client's natural part works well with your hair design, use it.
1. lay wide-tooth end of a styling comb flat at the hairline
2. draw comb back to end of desired part
3. hold hair with index finger on one side of part. pull rest of hair down with comb

Procedure 9 - Horizontal finger waving
- finger waves may be started on eiher ide of head
- this procedure, hair is parted on left side of head and wave is started on right (heavy) side
- apply lotion to one side of head at a time
-- prevents drying and requiring additional applications

Implements & Materials
- same as procedure 8 - preparing hair for wet styling
- styling comb
- waving lotion or styling gel
- hairnet
- hairpins
- cotton or gauze

Preparation
- same as procedure 8 - procedure 8 - preparing hair for wet styling

Procedure
1. part hair, comb smooth, and arrange according to planned style
- using wide teeth of comb => allow hair to move more easily
- always follow natural growth pattern when combing and parting hair
2. apply waving lotion with applicator bottle to side of hair you are working on fist while hair is damp
- comb lotion through section
3. begin first wave on right side of head
- using index finger of left hand as guide, shape top hair with comb into the beginning of "S" shaping, using a circular movement
- starting at hairline, work toward crown in 1 1/2 - 2 inch (3.7-5cm) sections at a time
4. form first ridge by placing index finger of left hand directly above position for first ridge
- with teeth of comb pointing slightly upward, insert comb directly under index finger
- draw comb forward about 1 inch (2.5cm) along fingertip
5. with teeth still inserted in ridge, flatten comb against head in order to hold ridge in place
6. remove left hand from client's head and place middle finger above ridge with index finger on teeth of comb
- draw out ridge by closing 2 fingers an applying pressure to head
- do NOT try to increase height or depth of a ridge by pinching or pushing with your fingers
-- such movements will create overdirection of ridge and uneven hair placement
7. without removing comb, turn teeth downward and comb hair in semicircular direction to form a dip in the hollow part of the wave
8. follow this procedure, section by section, until crown has been reached, where ridge phases out
- ridge and wave of each section should match evenly, without showing separations in the ridge and the hollow part of the wave
9. to form 2nd ridge, begin at crown area
- the movements are reverse of these followed in forming the 1st ridge
- draw comb from tip of index finger toward base
- all movements are followed in a reverse pattern until hairline is reached, completing 2nd ridge
10. movements for 3rd ridge closely follow those used to create first ridge
- however, 3rd ridge is started at hairline and is extended back toward back of head
11. continue alternating directions until side of head complete
12. use same procedure for left (light) side of head as you used for finger waving the right (heavy) side of head
- first, shape hair by combing it in direction of first wave
13. starting at hairline, form 1st ridge, section by section, until 2nd ridge of opposite side is reached
14. both ridge and wave must blend without splits or breaks, with ridge and wave on right side of head
15. start with ridge and wave in back of head and proceed, section by section, toward left side of face
16. continue working back and forth until entire side is completed
17. place a net over hair, secure it with hairpins or clips if necessary and protect client's forehead and ears with cotton, gauze, or paper protectors while under the hood dryer
- adjust dryer to medium heat and allow hair to dry thoroughly
18. remove client from under dryer and let hair cool down
- remove all clips or pins and hairnet from hair
19. comb out or brush hair into a soft, waved hairstyle
- add a finishing spray for hold and shine
- for retro avant garde, or dramatic look, do not comb or brush, but perhaps add a hair ornament sch as a rhinestone clip in the hollow portion of a wave

Cleanup & Sanitation
1. disinfect brushes, combs, hairpins, clips, cape, and hairnet after each use
2. sanitize your workstation
3. wash your hands with soap and warm water

Procedure 10 - Carved or Sculptured Curls

Implements & Materials
- same as procedure 8 - preparing hair for wet styling
- styling comb
- setting lotion
- double prong clips

Preparation
1. same as procedure 8 - preparing hair for wet styling
2. apply gel or setting lotion and comb hair smoothly

Procedure
1. form 1st shaping
2. start making curls at open end of shaping
- slice a strand to create 1st curl
- point left index finger down and hold strand in place
3. ribbon strand
4. wind curl forward, keeping hair ends inside centre of curl
5. hold curl in the shaping and anchor it with a clip

Follow steps below to anchor pin curls correctly so that curls hold firmly where you have placed them
- allows you to comb hair into style you have planned
1. anchor pin curls, start at open end of curl
- this is the side opposite the stem
2. clip should enter circle parallel to stem
- open clip and place one prong above and one prong below one side of circle
- upper prong should enter hair in centre of circle
- curl should be in gap between prongs
- to avoid an indentation "dent" in curl, do not pin across circle
3. if any clips touch skin, place cotton between skin and clip to keep skin from burning when client is placed under hood dryer

Procedure 11 - Wet set with rollers

Implements & Materials
- same as procedure 8 - preparing hair for wet styling
- roller of various sizes mad from plastic, wire with mesh covering, or sponge
- setting or styling lotion
- clips (double or single prong)
- tail comb

Preparation
1. follow steps under procedure 8 - preparing hair for wet styling
2. apply a setting or styling lotion

Procedure
1. comb hair in direction of setting pattern
- shapings may be used to accent design
2. starting at front hairline, part off section same length and width as roller
- choose type of base according to desired volume
- comb hair out from scalp to ends using fine teeth of comb
- repeat several times to make sure that hair is smooth
3. hold hair with tension between thumb and middle finger of left hand
- place roller below thumb of left hand
- do not bring together the ends of hair
- wrap ends of hair smoothly around roller until hair catches and does not release
4. place thumbs over ends of roller and roll hair firmly to scalp
5. clip roller securely to scalp hair
- roll remainder of hair according to desired style
6. place client under a hood dryer
- set dryer at temperature that is comfortable for client
7. when hair is dry, allow it to cool, then remove rollers
8. comb out and style hair as desired (see procedure 12 - combing out wet set)

TIP: for added volume, back-comb hair at base a little before placing roller in.

TIP: when clipping roller, it is important to secure roller properly to head
- a loose roller will lose its tension, resulting in a weak set
- if clip is placed at an angle against hair, the sharp metal edge can cause hair to break
- hold roller against the scalp, maintaining tension
- open clip and slit it into the centre of roller
- place one end under roller and one end inside roller

Procedure 12 - Combing out a wet set

Implements & Materials
- cloth cape
- neck strip
- cushioned paddle brush
- pick (optional)

Procedure
1. drape client for comb-out by securing neck strip around client's neck and placing a cloth cape over neck strip so that the cape does not come into contact with client's skin
2. after removing rollers and clips, brush hair through and relax the set
- smooth hair and brush it into semi-flat condition that permits you to position lines for planned hairstyle
- perform this procedure correctly in order to achieve smooth, flowing, and finished coiffure
- when combing out curly style, use pick or pick comb to lift and separate curls before brushing out hair
3. after thoroughly brushed hair, direct it into general pattern desired
- accomplish this by placing your hand on client's head and gently pushing hair forward so that waves fall into planned design
- lines of direction should be slightly overemphasize to allow for some relaxation during comb-out process
4. back-comb areas that require volume and back-brush sections that need to be brought into set (see section following)
- accentuate and develop lines and style
- take one section at a time, placing proper lines, ridges, volumes, and indentations into hairstyle
- create softness and evenness of flow by blending, smoothing, and combing
- avoid exggerations and overemphasis
- finished patterns should reflect rhythm, balance, and smoothness of line
5. final touches make hairstyles look professional - take your time
- after completing comb-out, use tail of comb to lift areas where shape and form are not as full as ou want them to be
- every touch during final stage must be very lightly done
- when finishing touches complete, check entire set for structural balance and then lightly spray hair with finishing spray

Cleanup & Sanitation
1. discard neck strip and place cape in appropriate hamper for laundering
2. thoroughly remove all hair from brushes and combs and disinfect
3. disinfect rollers, clips, and picks
4. sanitize workstation
5. wash hands with soap and warm water

Procedure 13 - Wrapping Hair

Implements & Materials
- gel or silicone shine
- boar-bristle brush
- duckbill clips
- neck strip
- bobby pins

Procedure
1. if hair is wet, a light gel can be applied before wrapping
- if hair is dry, a silicone shine product can be applied for a glossy comb-out
2. hold one hand at top of head
- using bruh in a pivot motion, wrap hair on outer perimeter of head
- do nto brush or push hair to back
- correct way is to always brush hair clockwise around head
- think of head as a roller
- your job is to smooth hair in a circular motion around it
3. use duckbill clips to keep hair in place while wrapping
4. continue wrapping hair in clockwise direction around head
- follow brush with your hand, smoothing down hair as you go along and keeping it tight to head
5. when all hair is wrapped, stretch a neck strip around head so it overlaps at ends
- secure wrapped strip with bobby pin and remove clips
6. if working with dry hair, leave hair wrapped for about 15 minutes
- if wet hair, place client under hooded dryer until hair is completely dry, usually 45 minutes - 1 hour, depending on hair length
- longer hair is wrapped, the smoother it will be

Procedure 14 - Blow-dry Styling

Implements & Materials
- blow-dryer with attachments
- styling lotion
- wide-tooth comb
- round brush
- styling cape
- neck strip

Preparation for All hair types
1. after shampooing, return client to seated position and comb out any tangles in hair
- remove excess moisture from hair by blotting with towel
2. place clean neck strip on client and drape with cutting or styling cape
3. escort client to styling chair

Procedures for Blow-drying different hair types and lengths
- to blow-dry short, layered, curly hair so as to produce a smooth and full finish, follow these steps
1. distribute styling product through hair with fingers and comb through with wide-tooth comb
2. using comb, mould hair into desired shape while still wet
3. for volume and lift, similar to roller set, use a small round brush
- apply mousse or spray volumizer at base
- section and part hair according to size or curl desired
4. insert round brush at base of curl
- degree of lift determines type of volume you will achieve
- using techniques learned in roller setting, dry each section either full base or half base
- for maximum lift, insert brush on base and direct hair section up at 125-degree angle
- roll hair down to base with medium tension
- direct steam of air from blow-dryer over curl in back-and-forth motion
5. when section is completely dry, press cooling button and cool down section to strengthen curl formation
6. release brush by unwinding section from brush (pulling it out could cause hair to get tangled in brush)
- for less lift at scalp, begin by holding section at 90 or 70 degree angle, following same procedure
- make sure scalp and hair are completely dry before combing out the style or shape will not last
- finish with hair spray

CAUTION: never hold blow-dryer too long in one place
- direct it from the scalp toward ends of hair
- hot air should flow in direction in which hair is wound
- improper technique will rough up hair cuticle and give hair a frizzy appearance
- always direct hot air away from client's scalp to avoid scalp burns
- move blow-dryer in a constant back-and-forth motion unless you are using cooling button to cool a section
- because hair stretches easily when wet, partially towel-dry hair before blow-drying, especially damaged or chemically treated hair
- necessary if you are cutting hair before you blow-dry, as hair will already be partially dry from amount of time it takes to cut it

To blow-dry short, curly hair in its natural wave pattern, follow these steps
1. attach diffuser to blow-dryer
2. apply liquid gel on client's hair
3. with wide-tooth comb or fingers, encourage hair into desired shape
4. diffuse hair gently, pressing diffuser on and off hair without overmanipulating hair, until each area of head is dry
5. relax or soften curl, slowly and gently run your fingers through curl when hair is almost dry, to give curl a more open look
6. for tighter curl, scrunch hair by placing your hand over a section of hair while it is being diffused, forming a fist with hair in your hand
- using pulsing motion, release and repeat until section is dry
7. for more shine, finish with a silicone spray or product to add desired shine

To diffuse long, curly to extremely curly hair in its natural wave patter, use steps below
1. apply a styling lotion or silicone shine product after towel-blotting hair
2. for easier control, section hair and work on one particular section at a time
3. attach diffuser to blow-dryer and diffuse hair by letting hair set on top of diffuser and pulsing dryer toward scalp then away, repeating until section is dry
- alternatively, gently run section being dried through your fingers and bring diffuser toward your hand

To blow-dry straight or wavy hair with maximum volume, use these steps
1. apply mousse, a volumizing spray, or light-weight gel to dampen hair
2. using vent brush or classic styling brush, distribute hair into desired shape
3. build shape from bottom up, working for nape up toward crown
- when you begin at nape, hold wet hair above nape in a sectioning clip
4. insert brush into hair at scalp
- while turning brush downward and away from scalp, allow brush to pick up a section of hair and begin drying
- direct airflow towards top of brush, moving in desired direction
5. work in sections, lifting and drying sections, then brushing them in design direction when they are completely dry
- repeat all over the head, directing hair at sides either away or forward
- fringe area could be dried either onto forehead or away from face
6. use an appropriate styling product to achieve desired finish

To blow-dry blunt or long layered, straight to wavy hair into smooth straight style
1. attach nozzle or concentrator attachment to blow-dryer for more controlled styling
- part and section hair so that only section you are drying is not in clips
- apply light gel
2. using 1-inch subsections, start first section at nape of neck and use classic styling brush to dry hair straight and smooth
- place brush under first section and hold hair low
3. follow brush with nozzle of dryer while bending ends of hair in preferred direction, either under or flipped outward
- continue using same technique working up to occipital area in 1-inch sections
- to keep shape flat and straight, continue using low elevation
- for more lift and volume, hold section straight out from head or overdirect upward
4. work up to crown, continuing to take 1-inch sections
- on longer sections toward top of crown, switch to a paddle brush, using curve of brush to add bend to ends of hair
5. after each section is dried with heat, follow by using cooling button on blow-dryer to help set each section and to keep it smooth
- for fuller look, switch to round brush
6. continue by subdividing hair on side and start with section above ear
- continue working in 1-inch sections
- hold at a low elevation and follow with nozzle of dryer facing toward ends
- bend ends under by turning brush for a rounded edge or outward for a flipped edge
7. work in same manner across top
- if there is a fringe, dry it in desired direction
- to dry fringe straight and onto forehead, point nozzle of dryer down over fringe and dry it straight using your fingers or a classic styling brush to direct hair
8. direct fringe away from face, brush fringe back and push hair slightly forward with brush, creating  curved shaping
- place dryer on a slow setting and point nozzle toward brush
- fringe, when dry, will fall away from face and slightly to side, for soft look

To blow-dry curly hair into a straight style, follow preceding procedure
- you may apply straightening gel and use largest round brush hair length will allow
- more tension will have to be applied to pull each 1-inch section straight
- be careful to keep dryer moving in a back-and-forth motion at all times
- if hair is fragile or damaged, this method not recommended
- consider alternative method such as wrapping hair

Graduated haircuts have either long or short-layered interiors
- to blow-dry graduated haircuts, use same basic blow-drying technique best suiting length of hair you are working on

Cleanup and sanitation
1. discard neck strip
2. thoroughly clean brushes of any loose hair and disinfect them
3. clean blow-dryer and remove any dust from air intake area or filter
4. sanitize workstation
5. wash hands with soap and warm water

Procedure 15 - Chignon

Implements & Materials
- neck strip
- styling cape
- electric or Velcro rollers
- grooming or teasing brush
- bobby pins, hairpins
- elastics
- working hair spray
- finishing spray
- curling irons
- tail comb

Preparation
1. drape client
- shampoo & towel-dry hair
2. redrape client with a neck-trip and styling cape
3. apply appropriate styling product that will give hair a lot of hold
- blow-dry hair, smoothing it with a brush for sleek finish
4. set hair in electric rollers or Velcro rollers, depending on amount of curl (electric rollers) or volume (Velcro rollers) you may need

Procedure
1. using grooming bristle brush, part hair on whichever side you choose, and brush it into a low ponytail at nape
2. secure ponytail with elastic rubber band, keeping hair as smooth as possible
- use side of bristles on brush to smooth hair
- an alternate method is to use elastics
- this is kinder to hair and keeps it smoother
- place 2 booby pins onto elastic and spread them apart, one on each side
- place one bobby pin in base of ponytail
- stretch elastic around ponytail base
- place 2nd bobby pin in base
- lock 2 pins together
3. part small section of hair from underside of ponytail, wrap it around ponytail to cover elastic, and secure with bobby pin underneath
4. smooth out ponytail and hold it with one hand, then begin back-brushing from underneath ponytail with other hand
- gently smooth out ponytail after back-brushing, using sides of bristles
5. roll hair under toward head to form chignon
- secure on left and right undersides of roll with bobby pins
6. fan out both sides by spreading chignon with fingers
- secure with hairpins, pinning close to head
- use bobby pins if more hold is needed
7. finish with strong finishing spray
8. add flowers or hair ornament to dress up chignon

Procedure 16 - Basic French Twist

Implements & Materials
- same as procedure 15 - chignon

Preparation
- same as procedure 15 - chignon

Procedure
1. brush all hair smoothly into ponytail at occipital bone
2. with free hand, reach in front of hand that is holding ponytail, with thumb pointing down toward client's nape
3. grab ponytail with thumb still pointing down and twist hair in direction in which your palm is facing, moving hair inward and upward
4. as you move toward crown, twist hair into funnel shape and secure twist with hairpins by pinning into seam, making sure not to expose pins
5. tuck ends into top of funnel of twist near crown
6. for less formal or younger look, let hair ends fan out and fall loosely over sides of twist, instead of tucking them into top of twist
- another option is to form curls, loops, or knots with hair at top of twist

Procedure 17 - classic French Twist

Implements & Materials
- same as procedure 15 - chignon

Preparation
- same as procedure 15 - chignon
- set hair with wet set or, to save time, electric rollers or thermal irons

Procedure
1. section off crown area and 2 side sections
2. back-comb entire back area, taking vertical sections
3. using side bristles of a grooming brush or a teasing brush, gently smooth all hair of back section to one side of head (in this example, all hair will move left)
- hold hair to that side by reaching over client's head with free hand
4. begin pinning hair at centre of nape, moving upward with bobby pins
- overlap pins by criss-crossing them to lock into place
- repeat until you reach back of crown
5. with brush, bring hair from left side over centre line and twist from centre of nape
- move upward and inward, tucking ends into fold as you move up, to create funnel shape
- secure with hairpins into seam as you move up, hiding pins in seam
6. tuck all ends into top of twist and pin
7. move to side section and lightly back-brush section
- twist section with seam facing back of head, covering part as you twist
- secure with bobby pin at top of side section, leaving ends out
8. repeat on other side
9. remove section clip from top section
- make 3 subsections horizontally across top of head
10. beginning with section closest to back of crown, slice out subsection about a third of width of horizontal section
11. back-brush and smooth subsection, using sides of brush bristles
- loop section over your fingers and secure at base of loop on scalp with bobby pin
- take care not to expose pin
12. take other 2 sections and form looped curls in same manner
- pin loops as close to top of twist as you can get, checking for balance and proportion
13. repeat with centre horizontal section, making 2 or 3 looped curls, depending on what density of hair will allow
14. go back to side area, with hair remaining out from side, twist, loop, and pin
- check in mirror for balance and proportion
15. style section in front near bangs as you wish
- this section could also be brought back and added to other looped curls if your client is comfortable with all hair off face, or sweep hair loosely to side and leave ends hanging softly down
- here is where your design ability comes into play as you make best design decision for your client
16. spray with firm-hold finishing spray and check to make sure there are no exposed pins

Procedure 18 - Thermal Waving
- thermal waving requires no setting creams or lotions

Implements & Materials
- shampoo
- styling cape and neck strip
- hard rubber comb (fine-toothed)
- conventional (marcel) or electric irons

Preparation
1. shampoo client's hair and dry completely
2. drape client for dry hair service
- secure neck strip around client's neck
- place cape over neck strip and fasten it so cape does not touch client's skin
- fold uncovered portion of neck strip down over cape
3. heat irons

Procedure
- before beginning waves, comb hair in general shape desired by client
- natural growth will determine whether or not first wave will be a left-going or right-going wave
- procedure described is for left-going wave
1. comb hair thoroughly, following directional growth
2. with comb, pick up strand of hair about 2 inches (5cm) in width
- insert irons in hair with groove facing upward
3. close iron and give them  1/4 turn forward (away from you)
- at same time, draw hair with irons about 1/4 inch (.625cm) to left, and direct hair 1/4 inch (.625cm) to right with comb
4. roll irons one full turn forward and away from you
- in doing this, keep hair uniform with comb
- you will find that hair has rolled on slight slant on the prong of the irons
- keep this position for a few seconds in order to allow hair to become sufficiently heated throughout
5. reverse movement by simply unrolling hair from irons and bringing it back into its first resting position
- when this movement is completed, you will find the comb resting somewhat away from irons
6. open irons with little finger and place them just below ridge, or crest, by swinging rod of irons toward you and then closing them
- the outer edge of groove should b directly underneath ridge just produced by inner ridge
7. keeping irons perfectly still, direct hair with comb upward about 1 inch (2.5cm), thus forming hair into half circle
- remember that in order to perform step 7 properly, you do not move comb from position explained in step 6
8. without opening the irons, roll them one-half turn forward and away from you
- in this movement, keep comb perfectly still and unchanged
9. slide irons down about 1 inch (2.5cm)
- this movement is accomplished by opening irons slightly, gripping them loosely, and then sliding down strand
10. after completing step 9, you will find the irons and comb in correct position to make second ridge
- this is the beginning of a right-going wave, in which the hair is directed opposite to that of a left-going wave
11. after completely waving one strand of hair, wave next strand to match
- pick up strand in comb and include a small section of waved strand to guide you as you form a new wave
- when waving 2nd strand of hair, be sure to use comb and irons movements that are the same as those you used when waving first strand of hair
- this way waves will match
12. style and finish hair as desired

Cleanup & Sanitation
1. discard neck strip
2. disinfect combs and other implements
3. sanitize your workstation
4. wash hands with soap and warm water

Procedure 19 - Soft Pressing for Normal Curly Hair
- the following procedure is one of several ways to give a hair pressing treatment
- keep in mind that you can adjust procedure

Implements & Materials
- shampoo
- towels
- shampoo and styling capes
- neck strip
- pressing comb
- clips
- pressing oil or cream
- heating appliance (gas or electric heater or attachment)
- hairbrush and comb
- spatula
- pomade
- thermal irons

Preparation
1. drape client for shampooing
2. shampoo, rinse, and towel-dry client's hair
3. drape client for thermal styling, using neck strip and styling cape
4. apply pressing oil or cream (some stylist prefer pressing oil or cream to hair after it has been completely dried)
5. dry hair thoroughly (blow-drying will eave hair more manageable than hood drying)
6. comb and divide hair into 4 main sections and pin them up

Procedure
1. place pressing comb in heater
2. unpin one section of hair at a time and subdivide into smaller parting
- beginning at right side of head, work from front to back
-- some stylist prefer to start at back of head and work forward
3. if necessary, apply pressing oil evenly and sparingly over small hair sections
4. test temperature of heated pressing comb on a white cloth or white paper to determine heat intensity before you place it on hair
5. lift end of small hair section with index finger and thumb of left hand and hold it upward, away from scalp
6. holding the pressing comb in right hand, insert teeth of comb into top side of hair section
7. draw out pressing comb slightly
- make a quick turn so that hair strand warps itself partly around comb
- back rod of comb actually does the pressing
8. press comb slowly through hair strand until ends of hair pass through teeth of comb
9. bring each completed hair section over to opposite side of head
10. continue steps 4-8 on both sections on right side of head
- then do same on both section on left side
11. apply a little pomade to hair near scalp and brush it through hair
- if desired, hair can be curled with curling iron at this time
12. style and comb hair according to client's wishes

Cleanup & Sanitation
1. discard disposable items
- disinfect brush and comb
2. clean pressing comb according to instructions ("Cleaning the Comb")
3. sanitize workstation
4. wash hands with soap and warm water

When pressing hair with a flexible scalp Remember to use blank to press the hair satisfactorily?

What should the cosmetologist remember with a flexible scalp?

What are the considerations in a hair and scalp analysis prior to hair pressing?

What are the two types of pressing combs?